The right hair cut makes a world of difference while the wrong haircut can make your world a nightmare especially if you have curly, unruly or frizzy hair.
Cutting curly hair requires a certain expertise and I will be exploring the technique in this article…
How should curly hair be shaped?
Curly, fine, thick or just plain frizzy uncontrollable hair requires a totally different approach both in styling, washing & especially cutting. Cutting curly hair requires a keen eye for shape & a good feel for hair.
The hairdresser must move away from the traditional method of creating a base line with which to work from.
STRAIGHT LINES IN CURLY HAIR DON’T WORK
It is my belief and has been for the last 25 years that curly hair is best cut dry because then the stylist can observe the shape taking place as they work in a freehand manner & can better remove the weight in the right places.
The traditional outside shape first is the technique that is the fundamental frame work that is taught in the early stages of a stylist’s education and this forms the basis and structure throughout their entire career. Hair cutting is taught in a methodical, scientific way using geometric, intersecting lines and a basic structure that forms the platform for expanding into more complex designs.
Curly hair does not conform to geometrics and needs an “inside out “approach. The weight or bulk of the hair must be taken from within the shape first so as to preserve the length that may be needed.
Traditionally a stylist will begin working on the outside length to form a GUIDELINE. Now what curly hair does not conform to is ANY line!
A stylist must be prepared to put down their comb and work primarily on FEEL and vision, so it’s almost a complete reversal of traditional methods as the length and outside shape should be the LAST thing that is worked on.
Curly hair should not be overly texturised or tapered as this just makes it more uncontrollable & the crown should not be cut too short as it will stick up. The front length should remain a bit longer because if the front is cut too short then the shape will appear round.
What type of shape works for curly frizzy hair?
Most people suit height & an asymmetric (to one side) parting so the shape needs to be elongated for this reason. By doing the bulk of the cut internally and dry, the outside shape will be left longer & can be lightly blended later.
The stylist needs to take full advantage of their mirror & use this as a guide to indicate just how much or how little to remove & they need to visually create the shape with plenty of “FEEL”.
Does your hairdresser have the feel for curly or frizzy hair?
There are plenty of technically perfect hairdressers out there but if they lack “feel” then they should not be cutting curly hair. Once the desired shape is achieved the hair should be co washed & preferably treated before either being plopped, lightly scrunch dried or left to dry naturally.
When you are co washing, low poo or re styling curly hair it is important to pick the right product. There are almost too many to choose from & the price varies dramatically.
To conclude….
✓ Do not be afraid to mix & match your products as they should complement each other.
✓ Make sure you vary your products from time to time & your hair will respond accordingly.
✓ Above all; BE KIND! Give your hair a regular treatment & if you want it to stay healthy just let it be its wild self occasionally.